Motion boom battery replacement

i have issue with soundcore motion boom battery where can i find a new battery replacement for motion boom
I had sent mail to support but they didn’t help me.

I am trying to fix a broken battery from one of my flares.
Its a normal 3,7V 4400mAh/16,3Wh Li-Ion
I can replace it and solder the controller.
Will do this next time

I am trying to fix a broken battery from one of my flares.
Its a normal 3,7V 4400mAh/16,3Wh Li-Ion
I can replace it and solder the controller.
Will do this next time.
I checked the mainboard and the controler, they are OK.
So there is only a need to replace the battery.

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So can i use two 3.7v 2200mAh 18650 battery then solder the controller and it will work normally?

Take a look at the battery of the M boom!
Did you check the mainboard, the controller and the battery?
My mainboard is OK, the controller is OK, but the battery is defective.
This is the battery of the Flare

You see the specs of the battery pack of the Flare.
Its a 3,7V 4400mAh/16,3Wh Li-Ion
( a very common battery pack)

There are replacements to be found at ebay or amazon.
(ca 19 Euros)

So its really worth to replace it.

teach to fish

Open up the speaker, taking photos at each step to remind yourself for reassembly.

Find the existing battery, the critical thing is knowing the voltage, typically Anker / Soundcore use two cells in series to make a 7.2V type two batteries pack.

Then buy battery same dimensions, they have to be same voltage, but you can vary the Ah hence the Wh. Then solder the cells, which requires a heat gun. Or try to find the exact same battery pack, Soundcore tends to buy two cell units.

If you look at FCC you can find a teardown shows the cells.

Specific example

Searching Amazon for the Motion Boom I see it’s product code is ‎A3118

Search FCC finds

https://fccid.io/2AOKB-A3118

And internal photos

https://fccid.io/2AOKB-A3118/Internal-Photos/INT-PHOTO-4968608

The battery is hidden underneath the main board so you’ll have to do a fair bit of dismantling to get to it.

This is what you should buy

It doesn’t matter if the Wh is different, but the dimensions, so the cell type, and the voltage has to be the same.

In this case they are using a common battery pack with a connector so you don’t need to do any soldering or welding just unplug existing and plug in identical replacement. Usually eBay or Chinese sites which delivers to your country. If you cannot get a pack as shown then you see within the pack are two 26650 in series so dismantle this pack carefully and reassemble with new cells, which is going to be technically more difficult than simply buy a whole unit with the cells within.

The internal photos hints where the main screws are, this product looks like you unscrew in 4 places from the rear?

Anker is doing a fair bit of revisions of their older speakers often changing the cells to match market availablity but I’m not seeing a revision yet of this product.

The critical thing is to check if the controller, the mainboard or the battery is defective.
This needs to be checked out first!

But in most cases the battery is defective.

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Sometimes the main board has got confused, so simply unplug the battery pack at the connection on main board and leave it a while and then reconnect can work. It’s worth trying that first. This product uses a standard connector so pull off gently.

Correct. This product isn’t that old, it’s more likely the main board got confused than cells dead, you’d more normally see cells dead 4+ years later, so yes for this product simply unplug for a while hopefully is all required.

If you are disconnecting the battery you have the effort of a hard reset.
There are some funny videos around where a fellow from India is changing the battery AND the controller.
He is really great “cutting off” pieces of the controller until it fits.

THAT’s PERFECT DIY, I really admire!

Funny but in this case simply pull the connector off the board should be sufficient, and would save further disassembly.

Remember cells can be dangerous if damaged to do this outdoors with ventilation and be gentle and slow.

That’s a little unfair. What we describe has some risk to you if you did badly go in with tools and dig into the cells you can cause harm to yourself, burning, so it’s never a recommendation to give. They said the safe response which is “no”.

You’ll probably weaken the waterproofing so don’t use it in wet conditions after disassembly.

Just to be sure: Might it still be under warranty? The warranty is 18 months.

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Never do such replacements. Often it’s more expensive than to buy refurbished item

Have you ever thought about that only 1 cell is damaged the other is fine?
This needs to be checked also.
If someone doesnt know a lot about batteries, mainboards and controllers
he should never do such repairs.

BE CAREFUL ITS YOUR OWN RISK!

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If someone knows what he is doing there is no problem.
If not and one is regarding only some hints from the internet one should definitely NOT do that kind of repairst!

Yes that’s possible, but then you’re getting to the point that such a person capable of testing that would never come here and ask the question.

26650 are getting more expensive than 21700, Anker is slowly replacing with more available batteries.

If I had an out of warranty speaker good bar the battery I’d replace with 2s2p and double the battery life, but then it wouldn’t fit and be a rattle problem to solve.

i never even thought of replacing a battery in the boomer. Yes , I have replaced parts in my computer system and laptop but those items cost me in the thousands and the repair was under 100. But an item that cost me under 150 with a long return policy aka warranty, especially one with an ipx 7 rating , I would not crack open to replace a battery. I recently seen them on sale for like 80 usd and the cost of getting decent batteries is about 40 , you will lose the “waterproof” once cracked open so going out for hikes or taking them camping or on the boat is out so why screw around. Now I get being a man and the need to tear apart and rebuild but sometimes the cost and effort is not worth it imho. But to each its own.

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Agree.

But there are still contexts it makes some sense, suppose you bought another, or they sent another under warranty, and “why not” try to repair it. Possibly you can do it at zero cost if you had a 26650 idle to swap out one of two failed cells, and you kept the repaired unit for a TWS home / dry context.

I’d tend to agree and do what you said for those very reasons. I have cell testers but don’t have solder weld gun so I’d be making a messy outcome with wires and tape.

I would never throw away anything defective before I make an attempt to repair it.

If one is skilled one can do a lot.
An meanwhile there are so many videos around showing how to repair an item.
In our case its very easy.
Even when the controller is defective it can be replaced.
Take a look here :

This kind of controller cost ca 2 Euros incl shipping from China.

And last not least : This guy has such beautiful nails! :rofl:

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That speaker battery is 1S2P 18650, quite different from 2S1P 26650

The latter may have a balancer wire in the middle.

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Exactly, I know this type of course.